Goodbye, Kenya...

I said goodbye to my Kisauni host family yesterday. It was really sad. They wanted me to look special for my trip back to Nairobi, so they decked me out in henna, an updo with extensions, makeup, and a lime green Swahili dress. I looked like a white Swahili bride. There were tears, and questions of whether I will come back in December for the cultural festival in Lamu. I had to tell them probably not, as I have classes through most of December... then they loaded me onto the night bus to Nairobi. After watching them catch a matatu back to Kisauni, I quickly changed into jeans and a t-shirt, because as touching as their gesture was, it really wouldn't have been a good idea to arrive in a somewhat-sketchy part of Nairobi looking like that. I'll really miss them. They have so little, but always managed to welcome everyone into their home for extended stays. I wasn't ready to say goodbye.

Arriving in Nairobi this morning was surreal... I felt like I was back in the United States. I still do. First off, since the politics have cooled down, there are tons of white people here now. It's actually really weird. Things look so established and clean... I have no idea how I'll react when I actually do return to the U.S.

Friends and family, please be patient with me when I come home. I feel like I have a million and one stories that I want to share with everyone and a million things I want to do (when I know everyone will be busy taking finals.) I also know for a fact that I'll have difficulty at first listening to the trials and tribulations of American life. We can really have whatever we want whenever we want it, and I now know at what cost. At the same time though, I look forward to all of my privileges, which I feel a little guilty about. It will be a very strange first meal home at one of the swankiest restaurants in Rochester.

I look forward to seeing and hearing from all of you soon!

Hooray for Lists

I've been weighing and analyzing my semester abroad in my mind as well as in numerous pointless "Maximizing Study Abroad" assignments, and I have come up with two lists- things I will miss about Kenya, and things I look forward to when going home. I've realized that as much as I look forward to going home, I also want to stay here. I feel like there's so much I haven't seen or done, and so much left to do. I'm just starting to feel comfortable, and it's nearly time to leave. I do miss home though. For those of you who really love me, perhaps you could go ahead and purchase the material things I miss from home for me. Just kidding, of course. Sort of.

Things I will miss in Kenya:

• Matatus
• Dancing
• Rastas and Rasta hats
• The Indian Ocean
• Taking more time in everything I do
• The Wema Centre Girls (especially my 8-year old Kiswahili tutor Pauline)
• 20-shilling fresh mango juice
• Ugali and beans
• Staying up late talking to my sisters
• Bongo, reggae, and R&B everywhere
• My morning chai
• Fred Jonyo and his hilarious analogies
• Being called "Auntie Kelsey," "Kesley" "Kesi" (court case) and "Kazi" (work)
• Doing little but feeling like I had a fulfilling day

Things I look forward to in the U.S:

• Friends and family
• Cheese
• Knowing I will receive correct change without arguing
• Hot showers
• Cold weather
• Fast, accessible internet
• Diet coke
• Blending in
• Being in charge of my own diet
• Being in charge of my own life
• Free nights and weekends on my cell phone
• Set prices
• A properly functioning digestive system
• Reliability of everything- including people

Hamjambo tena, watu wote!



I would like to start off by saying that the prose piece was not intended to worry anyone- I am very safe here, just often annoyed. Such is the price for being so beautiful (and by beautiful I mean white.)



Other than that, I've been spending a lot of time at Wema Centre and with my Mombasa family lately. Wema Centre is great, although I think I'd be able to do a lot more if I spoke more Kiswahili. The remedial class I work with is mostly first-graders, so they speak only in Kiswahili and I'm not much use to them in teaching. We have fun playing, though, and I grade their assignments, so I'm doing something at least.



The computer class I assist in is where I think I'm of much more use. I help adult students in MS Word and Powerpoint, and I feel like I'm doing more there than in the remedial class. I'm enjoying myself at Wema Centre, which is great because I know other program participants are having difficultues with their internships.

As for the home life, I love my family here, which is why it's so difficult when they put me in awkward money-related situations. Let's just say we have electricity now and guess who paid for it... I've haven't been paid back like promised, and I'm unsure of how to tell them that, although I'm a white American, I'm not at the point in my life where I can support a 6-person household. They're all great people though, and I can't blame anyone here for seeking money when they need it. There aren't employment opportunities around without connections, making finding money very difficult.

Living by modest means hasn't been as hard as I thought it would. I've really been surprised at myself. Yesterday, I opened my suitcase to take out a fresh pair of underwear and found a dead cockroach inside them. I just brushed it off and put them on, then realized what had just happened. I had to laugh about it. I did jump when a big one ran right over me on my bed, which is why I always use my mosquito net now, but overall, I think I'm a lot less of a pansy than before.

My semester is quickly coming to an end, and I'm realizing that I have three 15-page papers due in just 3 weeks which I haven't made much headway on. I really need to get my act in gear and crank these papers out. Coming home will be bittersweet; there are many people and comforts I miss a lot, but I wonder if I'll ever come back to Kenya. People here keep asking me to stay, or to return after my studies, and when they ask me if I will, I need to say honestly that I don't know. This trip has shown me that I'm a lot more adaptable than I thought I was, but I'm still not sure if I could ever really live in Africa. I'll need to reflect on it awhile in the U.S. and see.

Thoughts on the Public Beach

a prose piece by Kelsey

Sijambo! Yes, the United States. No, I've been here since January. Not until May. No, no wooden giraffes for me today. Because they're huge and will never fit in my suitcase. No, no. Ok dude, shoving the keychains in my face doesn't make them any less tacky, Hapana, Asante. Rasta mama? That's a new one. Nice change from mzungu. No, I do not want to pay 300ksh to ride the camel. Yes, I see you put a little straw hat on him. My answer is still no. Ok, get the camel's head out of my face and niache, tafadhali.

Wow, the water is so warm. Holy crap, there's like 20 men to every woman. This won't be good. No, I don't need swimming lessons, I know how to swim. Yes, we do swim in the U.S. We have several lakes and two oceans, in fact. No, I won't race you. Or date you. I don't have a phone. I don't know my address. I like Obama and Clinton both. Yes, I know Obama's father was from Kenya. No, I don't prefer Clinton because I'm a racist. Let's please stop talking about U.S. politics. Because I'm sick of explaining myself. No, I don't think all Muslims are terrorists. No, I don't, quit telling me how I think. Leave me alone. Niache. Because I don't like you, Sikupendi. How can I feel free when you won't go away? NIACHE! Eww, why are you making suggestive gestures at me, old man? I'm not coming any closer. You've got to be pushing 60. Enough with the eyebrows, when has that maneuver ever been successful? Please don't swim closer, ok guys, let's go. Crap, they're swarming. Time to bolt it to the host brother.

All right, time to find a matatu. This one is empty, let's go. Ok, full now, let's head back. Wait a minute, the conductor seriously thinks we can fit 20 people in a 14 passenger van? Hi, yes, yes I know I'm white, thanks, I forgot for a whole 2 seconds. Excuse me? Is my father a terrorist? Because he made one sexy bomb? Ok, that has to be the worst line I've ever received. No, no Nabil, please don't threaten to beat him. You're not very big and will surely die. Just ignore him, I'm used to it. No, I don't have a phone, I don't know my address. Oh thank God, my stop.

Mombasa is very hot

I'm working on a longer post, but right now I'm killing some time before going to the ferry to go to Diani this weekend! I'm shamelessly excited to be going to a tourist beach. More on the public beach in my upcoming post.

My family here is great- I have my mother Shadia, brothers Nabil (17) and Fadhil (2,) and sisters Iptisam (15) and Hafsa (13.) We're staying in Kisauni just outside Mombasa right next to the big Mosque, which is very beautiful and loud. Things are quite rural- no running water or electricity, but I think I'm adjusting well.

My internship is both confusing and interesting- more on it later, but it seems there is no need for orientations or training in this country, so I've just been winging it.

Miss you all!

When in Rome...

I have no running water at my next homestay, so I figured a hairstyle I don't need to wash or comb would be best.

A short lesson in Kiswahili

Hamjambo, Wanafunzi!
I thought I'd teach you all a little lesson in Kiswahili this week! Here is a list of all of the phrases that have come in handy during my travels thus far. Feel free to use them if you ever grace the country of Kenya.

Tuende! Let's go! Useful when urging lagging classmates and host brothers along.

Bei ngapi? How much is the price? Helpful when shopping in the market- you can get lower prices if you bargain in Kiswahili!

Usiniguse! Don't touch me! This will come in handy when dealing with a certain host brother who habitually pets you like a dog.

Niache! Leave me! Gets those market "helpers" off your back. Don't believe anyone who offers to "help" you bargain- they're getting a cut of the sale.

Sawasawa? Alright/Ok? More fun to say in Kiswahili than in English.

Sina pesa. I don't have money. Useful in the market, on the street, and when answering your host brother's request for a new watch when you know very well he broke his last one a day after purchase by testing its water resistance.

Pole! Sorry! Useful when apologizing to a classmate for chickening out for the third time when trying to cross the street, and holding them back with you.

Nina mpenzi. I have a boyfriend. If this doesn't work, Nina mume may be more effective. (I have a husband.)

There you go- the survival sayings kwa Kiswahili. Enjoy!

I have an internship!

Good news, folks! I will be interning in Mombasa at the Wema Centre. The Wema Centre is a rehabilitation center for street kids, and it provides both formal and nonformal education, vocational training, food, shelter, medical care, and counseling. My biggest role will be teaching reading and writing to youth ages 9-13 as well as conducting outreach among community children with the social workers. For more information about the organization, visit www.wemacentre.org. I'm excited to finally know what I am doing and where I will be! It seems I won't be very rural, as Mombasa is a decently sized city, but most Kiswahili is spoken on the coast, so being there should help my language skills quite a bit.

I also learned a little bit about my host family in Mombasa, and I am very excited about that as well. I'll get to experience a bigger culture change, as my family is Muslim, and I'll have four host siblings ranging in age from 2 to 16. I'm really looking forward to the internship portion of the program now!

Internship in Mombasa?

So, the MSID staff refuses to announce our internships until everyone is all together, but Simon (one of the staff members) asked me offhand if I would mind too terribly if my internship was in Mombasa. Of course, I do not mind at all, as they speak the most Kiswahili on the coast. Looks like I may not be in Kitui or Machakos after all...

I still don't know what I'll be doing in Mombasa, but it's a start. Coastal paradise, here I come!

another trip to the embassy

Yesterday, the five of us who were staying in the country for the weekend decided to go to the town hall meeting of Americans at the U.S. Embassy. The rest of the students on our program went to Uganda for the weekend to raft the Nile (which would have been amazing, but I couldn't justify spending over $300 to go to Uganda without seeing a good chunk of the country.) I've decided, along with my fellow students, that I hate U.S. Embassy meetings.

At the time of the meeting, they had not yet announced the news that Kibaki and Odinga had come to a power-sharing agreement, so everyone was still in the mindset that, should the talks fail, Kenya would have a civil war on its hands. Many people had questions that the ambassador either dodged or answered a little too optimistically in my opinion. Furthermore, he commended the police for their actions in maintaining stability in the country, which really sickened me and my classmates. He argued that the statistics released (which say that over 91% of the deaths in some areas were a result of police brutality) are "not very credible," even though numerous incidents have been caught on tape. He spoke highly of the Kenyan government structure and Constitution too, and it became even more clear to us that the reason the U.S. put so much pressure on Kenya to come to a political solution was not because the U.S. values democracy or freedom. So long as the country is stable, by any means necessary, the U.S. is fine and in fact, for most U.S. citizens in Kenya, it's business as usual. The ambassador even had the guts to say he thought the media over-dramatized the violence through the incident in Eldoret. I don't know how you over-dramatize over 30 women and children burned alive while seeking refuge in a church.

During the Q-and-A session, it was increasingly clear which citizens were in Kenya for exploitive reasons and which weren't. Many people had commendible questions on aid for IDPs and how to address the problem of ethnicity in the country, and others were more concerned with the state of their tourism industry or whether it was likely that the violence would spread to the "upper-class areas." I had to leave before the session was done because I was getting so upset.

I am happy that the two politicians reached their settlement, and was actually quite surprised with the amount of power Kibaki yeilded. It was great to see all of the Kenyans celebrating the news! Now only time will tell if this agreement is actually feasible, and if Odinga can live up to all of the promises he made to the people, or if he too will be swayed by power.

Samburu!

This weekend was amazing! We ended up going to Samburu National Park instead of Maasai Mara because the University of Minnesota didn't like the idea of us driving through a small portion of the Rift Valley, but I loved Samburu nonetheless. On Friday afternoon, we saw one of the Mau Mau caves, which I was really excited about. The Mau Mau fighters used to hide from the British in the caves, and also used them to pray. I was happy to see the caves I had read so much about, and was also happy to see Mount Kenya (even if I am too poor and out of shape to climb it.) It was also nice to be in the historically "white" highlands just because the climate is much cooler due to the altitude. We then went to a primary school near Mount Kenya which is sponsored by Minneapolis, MN. It was fun playing with the kids and seeing where they go to school each day. They were very eager to hear me sing a song, and I'm afraid to say they heard a very poor rendition of "Twinkle Twinkle Little Star."

Me and my new friends in Standard 6.

After camping Friday night, we headed to a Samburu village, but first had an incredibly touristy moment when we stopped and took a picture at the equator. Four of us were wearing Wisconsin shirts, and we're determined now to get our picture on the study abroad website. When we arrived in the Samburu village, we were greeted with a song and dance by the women. The whole experience was surreal. The Samburu people are cousins to the Maasai, but were separated from them by the British when they were placed in the north, while the Maasai were placed in the southwest. We participated in a short dance with them and then bought a few things from their market before heading to the National Park.

In our Samburu jewelry after the dance

Me, Caitlin, and the Samburu Warriors

At the national park, we went on an afternoon game drive. We didn't fulfill my friend's dream of watching a lion kill a zebra, but we did see tons of elephants! Afterwards we camped in the park and I realized that after the novelty of monkeys wears off, they really are pests. One even opened my friend's tent and took her cosmetic bag. She wasn't able to get it back. A group of the Samburu joined us for dinner and we had a goat roast. I chickened out and hid while they killed the goat and drank its blood, but a few of my classmates were brave and drank the blood too. I found out that I don't really like goat meat and will most definitely be returning to vegetarianism when I return to the U.S., but I do like it that the animals here get to live life before being slaughtered.

Elephants!

Giraffe!
The beautiful view

This picture reminded me of the Lion King

Sunday morning we went on an early morning game drive and saw many giraffes, impalas, gazelles, zebras, and water buffalo, then got in the vans for the long haul back to Nairobi. It was a great weekend!

Hello again, everyone! I have a few updates you may want to know about:

1. Last weekend I did not go to Maasai Mara, as the program staff decided it wasn't safe at that time to go. I stayed in Nairobi instead.
2. If we get the ok from the U of M, we should be able to go to Maasai Mara this weekend, if not, we're going to Samburu National Park instead.
3. I went to my first ever Nairobi disco last weekend. It was amazing. They played the "Numa Numa" song and "Who Let the Dogs Out" and neither was a joke. Men there danced without the company of women- It was a grand time. Of course, it's all fun and games until someone's cell phone gets stolen. In this case, my friend Sarah's. Oh well.
4. I touched a cheetah last weekend at Nairobi National Park. I also didn't tip the guide who attached himself to me and my friends after we entered the park. Oops.
5. I will be going to Mombasa a few weekends from now to bask in the sun and experience the coast of the Indian Ocean- I'm pretty excited.
6. Don't worry Dad, I do go to class here, too. 6 hours a day, in fact.

Hope all is well in the U.S! I hear Obama won Wisconsin- if he wins overall, I hope he picks Clinton as his running mate. I'm a big fan of both of them.

Hamjambo tena, rafiki zangu!

My second week at my homestay has started off well, I believe, but after a long weekend at home, I am ready to be out and about again. I like my host family a lot, but two entire days spent primarily with an 8 year old can make one eager for adults.

Last week, the whole group of Americans had to go to immigration to apply for our alien resident passes, and I've concluded that government paperwork offices in Kenya employ people who are just as unhappy to be there as those who work at government paperwork offices in the U.S. The entire experience was the opposite of fun. They got upset with us for coming in a big group, for being too slow, for not following directions when they hadn't actually given us any, etc. To top off the grand experience, they fingerprinted us in a room that smelled very much like rotting meat. Mmm...

I have Kiswahili for 14 hours this week, which is going to be intense. Even in Magdalena's class last semester, in which I was almost always flustered and stumbling over my own words, I was given a break. Now, with just me and "Pambazuko," we must always be on our toes and know our stuff. Currently we've been reading Kaburi Bila Msalaba, a novel about the Mau Mau rebellion- worlds better than Rosa Mistika for you wanafunzi wa Kiswahili. I've really had to study my vocabulary to comprehend the story, but hopefully this will prepare me for my rural homestay and internship.

Most afternoons I have Country Analysis with Dr. Jonyo, and I love listening to him lecture! My classmates find his lectures depressing (and it's true, colonialism isn't exactly an upper topic,) but understanding Kenya's history is crucial if one is to understand Kenya's current political crisis. I have heard people cite Kenya's ethnic divisions as existing since the very beginning, but it was Britain that purposely divided Kenya's peoples along ethnic lines in order to more easily conquer them. Different groups did exist before, but coexisted peacefully until the colonial power accentuated their differences in order to prevent unity. Britain further corrupted the state by centralizing power in the form of chiefs and then the government, creating a political system in which the President is given far too much power. These ethnic divisions remain today, further perpetuated by politics- the one in power can better assist his own people, and because the British neglected to assemble a system of checks and balances, these acts go unquestioned. I have faith that the mediation and reconciliation talks with Kofi Annan will help address these issues and look for a lasting solution.

Honestly, it was kind of nice to hear about a different country being the imposing aggressor for once, but I can't ignore the fact that the United States has brought many dictators to power as well in order to assure our own level of consumption remains constant. I can only roll my eyes whenever I hear western politicians talk of the importance of "democracy." If democracy was so important, we would allow other nations to democratically decide to go against our wishes.

Well, this rant has been sufficiently long, and I applaud those of you who made it to the end. This semester has me thinking quite a bit about world politics and equity, and I am lucky enough to be surrounded by students just as interested as I am. I'll leave on a lighter note though by saying a few things that excite me:

1. Glass bottled soda- so much better for the environment than plastic or metal
2. Extremely hospitable people
3. Maasai Mara- next weekend everyone on the program will be traveling to Maasai Mara to camp among Kenya's beautiful wildlife and experience a Maasai goat roast. I can't wait!

Notes from the mzungu

Hello again!

I am staying with my host family now, and they are very nice. My host mom Rose is very welcoming and loves to feed me. I worry that I'll end up gaining a bunch of weight this semester! My host brother Duke (8) was fairly indifferent to my existence until yesterday, when I showed him how to play frisbee. Now it's all he wants to do! Beforehand, I'd ask him a question and he would either refuse to answer or give me a vague, one word response. I think he was just a little shy. My host grandmother Anastasia is very talkative and loves to tell stories about her travels. My favorite story is her story about going to the U.K. She spoke of how she was astonished at all the wazungu (white people) cleaning toilets, mopping floors, and cleaning in general. She was a child during the Mau Mau rebellion and independence, and still gets a kick out of seeing the British take care of themselves!

My classes officially started today, since yesterday we had a meeting for Americans at the U.S. Embassy. You'll be happy to hear that they have a thorough evacuation plan in place, although they don't believe it will be necessary. It was interesting to hear the ambassador's perspective on the situation, although I don't quite agree with everything he said.

There is only one other person in advanced Swahili with me, which really puts the pressure on, but I'm sure I'll learn a lot because of it. We had 3 hours of Swahili this morning, and then Country Analysis this afternoon. My professor for Country Analysis is very engaging and I'm excited to learn a detailed history of Kenya.

As for my internship the second half of the semester, I am currently a "displaced person." I was supposed to have my internship in Kisumu (in the west,) but due to the recent violence in that area I had to be moved. I don't know where I will be, but I think I will be working at either an orphanage or a rehabilitation center for youth.

I think the largest adjustment I've had to make while being here is constantly being aware of my race. It's so easy to blend in as a white person in the U.S, and here I stick out like a sore thumb. I think this is the aspect of studying abroad that I will learn from the most.

The other adjustment I've had to make is getting used to traffic. The rule here is basically whoever acts first has the right of way- and people do not stop for pedestrians. I think the most terrifying experiences I've had have been crossing the street. My strategy so far has been to find a Kenyan crossing where I need to cross and to follow closely behind them. I'm hoping I'll get the hang of street-crossing soon... otherwise it may be a long (or short) semester.

I'd better get going home now, since I don't want my host mom to worry. She likes me to be in by 6:00 before it gets dark. Hope everyone else is having a good semester!

I am in Kenya...

...and it is not as bad as the news reports say, especially since I am not in the west. Nairobi is business as usual, and it is HUGE! I'm not used to such big, bustling cities.

I don't have much time to write, since my friends are leaving the cyber cafe soon, but I will say this: I am safe, I have not witnessed any violence, and do not believe the latest U.S. news reports that Al Qaeda was involved in the post-election violence. That is a load of you-know-what. People here have many opinions about the crisis, but they all agree that the U.S. should best mind its own business, especially since it has shown itself to be partisan.

I'll leave it at that- I'll try to write more later in the week. I miss you all!

The Trip is Still On

After many panicked days of searching BBC and the East African Standard for any scrap of news I could get my hands on and several vague emails from the Study Abroad Office at the University of Minnesota, I finally know the status of my semester in Kenya. The trip will continue with some restrictions.

I will now be leaving on January 27th instead of the 20th, and the possible locations for my internship are much more limited than before, but overall, I am very happy that my program is still going forward. I still encourage you all to follow the news on Kenya- there are many interesting and hopeful things happening currently, but also many troubling ones. I only hope that the former events exceed the latter. I will post again when I am in Kenya!